March 2015: I arrived to KTM (as insiders name it) during the coldest march since many years. Everybody kept telling me this. It was raining and it was dark. And with dark I mean: no electricity, therefore no lights on the street.
So I had to put on my red-hooded jacket when I danced through the streets, excited and so happy that I finally arrived!
The first word I learned was funny enough NOT a nepali one: loadshed! Its the most important one if you visit KTM.
Also the houses (as I was NOT staying in a Hotel, more about it here) have no insulation and double-glazed windows are a myth, it was somehow…cold. Only during the nights of course. And in the mornings. Ok I admit it: in the evenings too. Maybe you think that I’m complaining here, but I’m not. I was the happiest girl in the world in KTM.
What I love (and you’ll find weird):
- The dusty narrow potholes with a bit of road inbetween
- Chilling with cheesecake and coffee on a rooftop bar in Thamel (yes, even after the quake)
- Butcher shops: there you see the whole dead sheep in the morning, the chopped-off heads and the meat at noon, and only the heads + the intestines in the evening
- Stupas: the headache-producing songs at the stupas touched my heart (and killed my ears). The best one is the Boudha stupa, make a kora ((ritual circumnavigation)) and go right not left as all do – then you can watch the people.
- HOLI: at the begionning of March, people start throwing water and then colours at each other, accompanied by disco rhythms. The best HOLI party is form Nepa music at 1905 Kantipath, make sure to get tickets if you are in KTM.
- Pizzas (here) and coffee (I used to have 4-5 hazelnut cappuccinos every day, but I can stop anytime if I really want!!)
- Thamel: the mad and lively streets of the center
- People: inside and outside (with their easter-eggs coloured suites)
- Dreaming away the hours in Little Vienna (Garden of Dreams)
- The peacefull coexistence on the pavement: cows, motorbikes, dogs and humans
- Music: Fridays in KTM is live music, dance and drink day. Harsha lash
- And OMG there is so much more…